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With the familiar brand of Indian politics being played out regularly, its time to hit the rewind button and head towards one of Chennai’s best kept secrets, on a journey to find out, the sanctity that is accorded to the ruling of King. To start with, the very mention of Thirukalukundram would cause many of our local readers to frown, for reasons already mentioned in the previous post.. But, please read on, as there is a much more important and beautiful rock cut cave excavated just below Vedagireerswara shrine on top of the hill which we saw earlier. We are going to see the best kept secret of the town.

Half way up when those extra helpings of Deepavali sweets begin to give their attendance and you rest, you are met with a steep flight of stairs. This is the new route, there exists an older route which goes around hill. Take it and you will come to the Oru Kal Mandapam.

cave
grill+doors
view+from+top

Though being under ASI care, there is no one around and is locked ( do not know if i have to thank them or curse them for that)

The cave is stylistically dated to just after Mahendra Pallava’s period - post 630 CE. The first indications are the relatively smaller size of the pillars. The general layout of the cave is as below

tirukalukundram+layout

We begin with the main Shiva Linga, an imposing edifice in the main sanctum ( note there is no somaskanda relief carved in the back of the Sanctum)

linga+central shrine

The Sanctum is flanked by our usual door guardians in slightly lower relief than normal

central+shrine
doorguardian+left
doorguardian+right

What is interesting is the placement of Brahma ( four faced - 3 showing- with a very unique headdress) and Vishnu with their attributes, on the two sides of the main sanctum in the Ardha mandaba ( inside hall) This is a new feature not found in caves of Mahendra Pallava.

Brahma
vishnu
brahma+closeup
vishnu+closeup

Apart from these, there are two more figures carved in the mukha mandapa ( front hall)

celestial+left
celestial+left+closeup
celestial+right
celestial+right+closeup (5)

Now, we come to the operative part - the inscription ( Epigraphica Indica Vol 3 )
page 363.

(Line 1.) Hail! Prosperity! In the twenty-seventh year (of the reign) of King Rajakesarivarman ( Aditya Chola - 870 - 907 CE)
(L. 2.)Whereas Skandasishya had given (certain land) free from taxes to the feet of the God of the holy Mulasthana (temple) at Thirukalundram in Kalattur-kottam (and) in the subdivision called after itself, (and) as, accordingly, Narasingapottaraiyar ( Narasimha Pallava),the conqueror of Vatapi, had confirmed (the grant) in the same manner - I, Rajakesarivaraman, at the request of Puttan, the son of Gunavan of Andurai, have maintained ( the grant ) as the former Kings had maintained it. The feet of one who protects this charity, shall be on my head .

The greatness of one King to not only honor a previous King, that too of a different clan, but to state that he did so as the former King had done to another person - is indeed a lesson in ethics for today’s rulers. Not only that he addresses his predecessor ( of 267 years) with his title as the one who conquered Vatapi. True greatness or truly great.

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It was a very rainy day when we reached Gangai Konda Cholapuram. Fortunately the rain stopped giving us a brief window to complete our tasks on the outside. The rain swept temple gleaned in all her pristine glory as we entered her.

rainsoaked

As usual we were subjected to some rants by the ‘ authorities’ on cameras and photography, and we put forward the same arguments that any ASI site - Photography is allowed and free of charge - except for the Sanctum. ( providing of course you cannot use a tripod - some weird logic of ASI !). We wanted to cover a few miniatures inside the main Vimana but the arguments got us nowhere. We faced the prospect of one more unsuccessful attempt to cover them, when we were shocked to see that there was a big family function happening inside with full videography ! We threatened to bring hell and after much persuasion and promise that we would not shoot the main Sanctum, managed to get our equipment out.

The power went off right on cue just as we took in the sight of the gargantuan door guardians guarding the main sanctum.

door_guardian_l
door_guardian_r

How massive are these guys?

giant

do you notice a small black speck in the photo towards the base??

black+speck
black+speck+check

Yeah, its the Cannon lens cover

cannon

As we walked past the dynamic duo to the next chamber, a very dimly lit wall showcased a brilliant miniature, quite in contrast to the massiveness of the occupants of the other side.

gkc_miniature

Sadly, we were clicking blind due to the power outage and the most important area of the relief was missed out. But still we could make out the panel. Apart from a whole host of distinguished rishis, we could spot Brahma officiating a ceremonial gathering.

brahma+consort

And on top, was the marriage of the divine parents - Shiva as Kalyanasundara taking the hand of Meenakshi, with Lakshmi and Vishnu giving her away on both sides.

marriage

The immediate reaction was the recollection of the splendid Kalyanasundara Bronze which we saw earlier. .

bronze

The resemblance is remarkable

shiva+parvathi
closeup+shiva+parvathi
prasad+sketch
shiva+uma

The stance and posture of Lakshmi

lakshmi

Vishnu seems to be little more bent forward than the bronze

shiva+vishnu

But the clincher were the shy stance of Meenakshi

parvathi
meenakshi

and the kati Vasta of Vishnu ( if you notice the way the waist cloth is worn by Vishnu - you see a characteristic U ), which is absent for Shiva.

garments

We saw this in the previous post,

detail_3

Compare the depiction in the bronze

vishnu

Two different mediums, each with its complexities - the miniature with its size, yet the sculptor adheres to his Canons !

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