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Posts Tagged ‘pullalur ’

We do come across ruined sites quite often. In India t is a problem of plenty, if not each of these would be a national treasure. But then, the brick temple in Pullalur struck a raw chord.
a crumbling treasure in pullalur

Despite the short time we spent there due to the deteriorating light, risky conditions ( no lunch !) n threat of snakes around, there was a feeling which cannot be explained in words. I talked of the sad plight of this mighty structure to everyone i met and luckily impressed on Mr Chandra of REACH Foundation to do a followup visit. My idea was to get some closeups of the Vimana and also the Sudhai ( lime and mortar figurines there) - so that we may have possible clues to tentatively date this structure.

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sudhai+work+on+vimana2JPG
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Chandra did one step better. He took Dr.T. Satyamurthy, along with him and rest …is best to give a blow by blow account.

It was around 4.00 PM my time, when Shankar texts me - ” Reach team has found some remains of paintings”
Me. ” Which temple?”
Shankar : Pullalur !
Me: Which one in Pullalur
Shankar: Brick - ruined one.
Me: OMG, calling you ….

But, why did we miss it in the first instance ? Take a look yourself and judge

sri+TS+inspecting

If i tell you that the find is on this wall, am sure you will be shaking your head. am not joking.

looks+like+plain+wall
notice+the+paintings
so+much+details+two+faces
so+much+to+see

Not convinced yet. Then our overlooking them is forgiven. There are four people with fantastic ornamentation, ornate crowns and if you are sharp enough - can even spot the eye brows and bulging eyes. Who could they be?

crown+detail
details+of+the+paintings
fantastic+ornaments
notice+eye+brow
notice+eye+brow+face
so+much+details
the+face+on+extreme+left

The larger question now, is the date of the basic brick structure and the date of these paintings?

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It was almost noon and despite my folks showing various signals that it was past their endurance point, I was lost amidst the treasures of kanchi kailasanthar temple, when the jolt of my ( ok loan from Dad) samsung handphone brought me back to my senses.

“Vijay, come over on Kanchipuram Arakkonam route, am waiting near Tirumalpuram railway station. ” It was heritage enthusiast K.S. Shankaranarayanan. We were to go and try and cover the Early Chola temple in Tirumalpuram. Little did i realise what the rest of the day held in store for me. Halfway through, the landscape got the best of my brother’s ford and my folks. Quick decision to send them on their way back to chennai and i shifted to shankar’s vehicle. The next two hours was an amazing experience but that post will follow shortly, as what we witnessed later on during that day, churned our insides out. The image has been haunting me every since, and i sincerely hope and pray that there can be something that we can all collectively do to save this astounding structure from crumbling to dust.

What and where is this structure that i talk of ? Its an area that has surprisingly witnessed two historic battles. ofcourse, the name Pullalur, wouldn’t register as a Panipet would do, however a little flashback - for those who have read Kalki’s Sivagamiyin sabatham - thanks to Pavithra for the online English translation - am sure Sivagami & Gundotharan along with Pullikesi and Narasimha Pallava would come back to refresh our memories.

Sivagamiyin Sabatham - Battle at Pullalur

The site also witnessed an astounding defeat of the British by Tippu and the french in 1780 - read more from Sri Muthiah’s -

The story of Two Obelisks.

Ok, enough of the location, what you are going to see below is possibly a ….

where+am+i

No self publicity here. You will understand the reason for me posing here after a couple of progressive longer shots ! Now, where am ?

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Hmm, lets zoom out a bit more.

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We were actually returning after visiting the temples in worship in Pullalur, when from inside these bushes Shankar spotted this structure. When we enquired around, the villagers mentioned ” Oh, that’s our tonsured Vimana ( mottai Gopuram)”

It was only when we went nearer, that we could gauge the actual scale of this beauty.

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fantastic+structure
scale

The lower base has been subject to parasitic activity - obviously the bricks have been put to ` better’ uses.

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entrance

The towering tower really started overpowering us with its imposing presence, like an aged warrior, despite its visible marks of valor, it still held its head high in the skies. We counted six tiers capped by a beautiful shikara ( the top dome is missing now)

first+tier
second+tier
third+tier
third+tier
fourth+tier
fifth+tier
sizth+tier+sudai+narasimhar
sudhai+narasimhar
top+shikara

There were still a few Sudhai ( lime & mortar) sculptures on the Vimana.

narasimhar+sudai
who+could+it+be

Despite all the destruction around it, centuries of obvious neglect spawning a profusion of vegetation eating into it - the real beauty of this Vimana came to us. What we cannot delivery today, with the best of engineering talent, machines, science, technology, advances in materials - this lonely edifice proclaimed its mastery in silence, with a profound sense of grief and overpowering sadness that enveloped us, touching a raw chord in our hears was its core, which revealed itself to us in a powerful manner as we stepped inside the Vimana.

engineering+marvel
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The engineering skill of the ancients - it was still picture perfect, the sacred geometry of the tiers were still doing their duty. But in that, they seem to place an appeal to us. Duty bound to their task, despite the main deity not being present, they conveyed the essence of the Omnipresent. The Tamil equivalent of the central core of a temple is called the ” karu varai” which essentially means a mother’s womb - such a profound significance for a name and the selfless dedication that is associated with it. Can we do something in return?

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