A thousand year struggle to survive

I visited Chennai last June and immediately my good friend Mr. Chandra invited me for sunday trip to Uthiramerur. I jumped at this lucky chance little knowing what was in store.

We merrily got off early by 8 and reached this historic town by 10. After a hot breakfast of delicious pongal and dosas, we went to visit the Perumal temple ( with some lovely sculptures and edicts – will most later)

We then adjourned for the main event, visit to mark the opening ceremony for renovation of the Kailasanatha Temple. As i turned left into the road, i was hit by a thunderbolt. Nothing had prepared me or this sight, ok we have seen quite a few dilapidated temples, but something of this scale.
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The temple was obviously a pallava build, a brick structure on a granite foundation. The overgrowth gave it a kind of Angkorian look, complete with huge overhanging rooted plants. We went round inspecting the amazing struggle of this edifice – as we entered the main shrine – something remarkable happened. I couldnt take pictures ( as this was the Garba graha) but let me try n bring you the sight in words. We were expecting the worst, the panel behind the main shrine was empty ( could have held a wooden somaskanda panel in days of yore), the main ceiling slab had cracked, was expecting the worst seeing the collateral damage outside, but the ingenuity and engineering of the ancients was there for everyone to see – there stood the most perfect jet black shiva linga – shining in all his glory, not a scratch on him. With watery eyes and flesh tingling with goose pimples, we went around the gopuram ( tower) – the granite foundation has inscriptions all over, covered in dust, filth, dirt, name it.
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As we cleaned it, we had a trained epigraphist who read out the old tamil…the inscriptions were those of Rajendra Chola ruled 1014 AD ( the son of Raja Raja Chola who built the great temple in tanjore and who himself built the temple in Gangaikonda cholapuram)
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Some more and we fond inscriptions of Danti Varma Pallava ( 830 AD approx)
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But due to the sterling efforts of REACH foundation and a generous donation from this noble soul, ( who sold his land to fund the initial renovation ) work has started to restore this great temple to its former glory. We seek the support of like minded souls to contribute generously.
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http://www.conserveheritage.org/

12 thoughts on “A thousand year struggle to survive

  1. welldone vj

    once again seeing the puchmark of yours.
    keep it up.

    why dont u concentrate district vise.

    for ex. villupuram district

  2. great work done by the work..there are so many such temples in Karnataka of the Hoysala period that are in sumilar condition..its terrible to see them in this state

  3. Dear Friend
    I go through your web site. It is great. Our Culture and Art were shown in the stone in an excellant way. Your exposure through net
    to our community is a wonderful work
    thank you for your work
    pollachinasan

  4. விஜய்,

    ஒவ்வொரு தலைப்பின் கீழ் வரும் படங்களை பவர் பாயிண்ட் வாயிலாக தொகுத்து காட்டலாமே. ஒவ்வொரு படத்துக்கும் உரிய குறிப்புகளுடன்.

    உங்கள் பணி உன்னதம்.

    ராஜு

  5. ஏன் விஜய், இதை தொல்பொருள் துறையின் பார்வைக்கு படும்படி செய்ய முடியாதா???? இதைக் காப்பாற்ற வழியே இல்லையா????

  6. Dear Vijay,
    The good news is, after removing the front mandapa stones to reconstruct them back, to our surprise we saw in the Kumuda vari, the inscriptions on the sides continuing further to another 4 feet! The inscriptions are to be deciphered by us by this tuesday and will post it sooner. seems the front mandapa was added later by some other kings..
    Chandra

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