Kapoor Files- Art of the Loot Part 9- Toledo Ganesha

We had promised for some explosive revelations on this case. Here is the first of the next set. We go back to photos published by the Idol Wing.

The first of the green marked ones – the Ganesha.

Ever since this case has been in the open, we have been running through various Museum databases and acquisitions and cross checking with the images published by the Idol wing. This bronze currently in the Toledo Museum came up in our searches as it was acquired in 2006 ( for the acquisition number)

On further checking we notices that the Museum has had a lot of interaction with the accused Subash Kapoor and he is listed in their annual report 2007 ( refer the end notes). We could not find the gallery’s 2006 Annual report and hence are not aware if the provenance information is declared in that document.

However a simple comparison reveals that we are looking at the same Sripuranthan Ganesha

Lets take a closer look – there is a small blemish in the trunk ( wish we could receive better quality images of the same)


Thanks to a friendly associate who took the pains to drive up to the Museum and get us high resolution images we can check the bronze in toledo and match the same.

The Hands, base pedestal, the loin cloth ornamentation all match up.



Now, it is upto the authorities to seek the return of this looted deity.

Foot Note:

Annual report 2007 of the Toledo Museum ( extract):

Burmese, Buddhist Votive Plaque, 12th–13th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.113
Burmese, Buddhist Votive Plaque, 12th–13th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.114
Indian, Gupta Period, Seated Mother, 5th century, terra cotta, terra
cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.107
Indian, Gupta Period, Standing Monkey, 6th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.108
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.109
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Kubera Rattle, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.110
Indian, Gupta Period, Durga Killing Buffalo Demon, 5th century,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.111
Indian, Mauryan, Bird with Wheels, 1st century B.C.–1st century A.D.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.112
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Kubera Rattle, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.115
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fertility Goddess Sitting with Star, 1st
century B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor,
2007.116
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Square Plaque with Horse, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.117
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fertility Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.118
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Man Riding Animal, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.119
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Torso of a Woman, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.120
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Monkey Figure, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.121
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.122
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.123
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque with Two Figures, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.124
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque with Figures, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.125
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.126
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Rattle of Kubera, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.127
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque of Yakshi, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.128
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.129
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.130
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque of Standing Figure, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.131
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque of a Horse, 1st century B.C.-1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.132
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque of Two Figures, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.133
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.134
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.135
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Circular Plaque Fertility Goddess, 1st
century B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor,
2007.136
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Figure on Crocodile, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.137
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.138
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fragment of Yakshi Head, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.139
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Standing Yakshi, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.140
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fragment of Yakshi Plaque, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.141
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fragment of Yakshi and Bird, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.142
Indian (Uttar Pradesh), Ram, 1st –2nd century A.D., terra cotta, Gift
of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.143
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Mithuna Plaque, 1st century B.C.–1st
century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.144
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Plaque of Water Buffalo and Tiger, 1st
century B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor,
2007.145
Indian (Chandraketugarh), Fertility Goddess Figure, 1st century
B.C.–1st century A.D., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.146
Indian (Uttar Pradesh), Gupta Period, Head, 5th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.147
Indian (Uttar Pradesh), Gupta Period, Head, 6th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.148
Indian (Uttar Pradesh), Gupta Period, Head, 7th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.149
Indian (Uttar Pradesh), Gupta Period, Head, 8th century, terra cotta,
Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.150
Indian (Western India), Female Head, Gupta period, 5th century,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.158
Indian, Gupta Period, Head, 4th century, terra cotta, Gift of Subhash
Kapoor, 2007.159

seems he was also into Pakistani

Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Bull with Two Humps, 5000–
2000 B.C., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.151
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Cow, 5000–2000 B.C., terra
cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.152
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Cow on Base, 5000–2000 B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.153
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Two Cows, 5000–2000 B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.154
Pakistani, Cross Plaque, 5th–7th century, terra cotta, Gift of Subhash
Kapoor, 2007.155
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Bowl, 4th–3rd century B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.156
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Female Doll, 5th–3rd century
B.C., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.160
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Female Doll, 6th–3rdcentury
B.C., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.161
Pakistani (Mohenjo-daro; Ancient India), Weight, 3000–1000 B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.162
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Bull with Two Humps, 5000–
2000 B.C., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.151
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Cow, 5000–2000 B.C., terra
cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.152
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Cow on Base, 5000–2000 B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.153
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Two Cows, 5000–2000 B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.154
Pakistani, Cross Plaque, 5th–7th century, terra cotta, Gift of Subhash
Kapoor, 2007.155
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Bowl, 4th–3rd century B.C.,
terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.156
Pakistani (Mehrgarh; Ancient India), Female Doll, 5th–3rd century
B.C., terra cotta, Gift of Subhash Kapoor, 2007.160

Iranian

Iranian, Pitcher, 9th–10th century, terra cotta, Gift of Subhash
Kapoor, 2007.157

The Museum recognizes and thanks the
following organizations, businesses, and
individuals who made gifts during 2008
in support of art acquisitions, capital
projects, and special programs.
$100,000+ – Subhash Kapoor: gift of art

CUMULATIVE GIVING
The Toledo Museum of Art salutes the
following donors for their generosity and
continuing support during its second
century:
Key:
I. Founding Benefactors
II. $10 million and higher
III. $5 million to $9.999 million
IV. $1 million to $4.999 million
V. $500,000 to $999,999
VI. $250,000 to $499,999 – Mr. Subhash Kapoor
VII. $100,000 to $249,999

Sivapuram Somaskanda – the untold story

The title of this post should raise a few eye brows – for the popular topic should be Sivapuram Nataraja – but no, it is no typo. What you are going to see today is the untold story of the “other” bronzes from the same temple. It is the dark side of what is considered to be a landmark judgement – of returning antiquities.

The case of the famed Sivapuram Nataraja is too easy to google – the jist is this….


1951: The Nataraja along with 5 other bronzes were found during renovation works carried out in the Sivapuram temple . and as per the Indian Treasure Trove act they were given to the temple ( ownership vested with the State).

“In 1951 Annamuthu Padayatchi of Sivapuram, Thanjavur unearthed 6 idols viz., Natarajar, Thirugnanasambandar, Somaskandar, Pillaiar and two Amman from his field.”

The Collector of Thanjavur, handed over the 6 idols to the temple authorities of Sri Sivagurunathasamy Temple of Sivapuram as per G.O.Ms.No. 2987/Revenue Department dated 29.10.1953.

1954-56: The Nataraja was sent for restoration to a local Stapathy ( afflicted by Bronze disease?). They were masterfully faked and originals stolen then.

The trustees of the temple wanted to repair the idols and this work was entrusted to Ramasamy Sthapathy of Kumbakonam in the year June 1954. In the year 1956 Thilakar of Kuttalam and his brother Doss induced Ramasamy Sthapathy to part with the original Natarajar and 5 other idols and to substitute the same with fake idols. Thilakar dispatched the original Natarajar idol to Lance Dane of Bombay, an Art Collector, arranged by Doss who kept the idol for 10 years

1963: an important clue and event – which we will see later.

1965: Mr Douglas Barret of the British Museum visits the temple. He denounces it as a fake and records it in his book. He also reveals that the original was with a dealer in Bombay.

Dr.Douglass Barret of British museum, in his book on ‘South Indian Bronze’ mentioned that the Natarajar idol in Sivapuram was a fake one and the original was with a private Art Collector. Tr.P.R.Srinivasan (curator of the Museum) alerted the Director of Museum and the Government of TamilNadu. An enquiry conducted on this resulted in registration of a case in Natchiarkoil
P.S.Cr.No.109/69 U/S 406 IPC. The Crime Branch C.I.D took up the investigation.

1967: The Nataraja idol came into the possession of Boman Behram, a Bombay collector of art, who sold it to Ben Heller, a New York art dealer.

Doss who kept the idol for 10 years and sold it to Bomman Beharan of Bombay who in turn sold it to Menu Narang. Benn Haller of New York bought it for 6 Lakhs rupees in 1969 and sold it to Norton Simon Foundation for USD .9 Lakhs

1973: Ben Heller sold the idol to the Norton Simon Foundation for a reported $ 900,000.5

1973: The Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) in New York began planning an exhibition of the Norton Simon Foundation’s Indian art collection. Through the publicity surrounding the show, the Indian Government learned about the statue’s presence in the United States. This was the first time that the Indian Government had traced the object since its theft. Consequently, the Indian Government wrote a letter of protest to the MET and, with the help of the United States Department of State, blocked the show’s opening.
1973: The Nataraja idol was shipped to the British Museum for further restoration.

1973: The Indian Government filed suit in Los Angeles (the domicile of the Norton Simon Foundation) and New York (the domicile of Ben Heller) seeking restitution.Furthermore, it exercised political pressure on the Government of the United Kingdom, consequentially leading to Scotland Yard impounding the statue. The Norton Simon Foundation refused to return the Nataraja idol by asserting that India had no rights or title to it.

1975: India voluntarily interrupted the litigation for a set one-year period in a hope to facilitate an out-of-court settlement.

1976: The Norton Simon Foundation and the Government of India settled the case out-of-court by way of a mediated agreement.

The official Indian versions are the one’s in bold including below

A special party arrested Lance Dane, Thilakar, Doss, Ramasamy Sthapathy. Tr. S. Krishnaraj, the then D.I.G, CB-CID, TamilNadu visited United States and gathered evidence as to smuggling of the Idol. The Scotland Yard found that the Natarajar was sent to Mrs.Anna Plowden of London by Norton Simon Foundation for repairs as the idol developed corrosion and impounded it.

The Government of India filed a civil suit against the Norton Simon Foundation in England, New York and Los Angles claiming the Natarajar Idol. Thiru.K.K.Rajasekaran Nair, I.P.S, I.G.P (Crime), Madras sent a letter to the Government of TamilNadu to request the Ministry of External Affairs to get the Idol back. Dr.M.S.Nagaraja Rao, Director-General, Archaeological Survey of
India, NewDelhi got the Idol from the Indian Embassy, Washington and now the Idol is in the safe vault of Kabaleeswarar Temple, Mylapore, Chennai. All accused arrested and convicted.

There is no information about the remaining idols

This is where it gets interesting – what happened to the remaining 5 bronzes?

“In 1951 Annamuthu Padayatchi of Sivapuram, Thanjavur unearthed 6 idols viz., Natarajar, Thirugnanasambandar, Somaskandar, Pillaiar and two Amman from his field.””

Remember the year 1963. This was the year when Sri. P. R. Srinivasan brought out his magnificent volume – Bronzes of South India – P.R. Srinivasan (F.E. 1963, L.R. 1994)


Fortunately he had taken photos of not only the Nataraja but also the Somaskandar. He also clearly notes the location as “under worship in the Sivapuram temple”

Now things get interesting as there is this exhibit in flickr dated dec 20th 2008. pertaining to an exhibit in the Norton Simon Museum.

The plate giving the provenance is “interesting”

Even to a lay man the comparison is obvious.

The Museum’s site also features the same bronze but without the plate

Now a little more help from google reveals interesting additions to the same Museum’s collection in the year 1972 ans 1973

Saint Samabandar :

Parvathi

Ganesha

“In 1951 Annamuthu Padayatchi of Sivapuram, Thanjavur unearthed 6 idols viz., Natarajar, Thirugnanasambandar, Somaskandar, Pillaiar and two Amman from his field.”

The information of the case are from the website of the State = which ends as “All accused arrested and convicted. There is no information about the remaining idols “

What exactly were the terms of the out of Court settlement reached? That too with someone who quote:

Simon’s comments on the Nataraja published in The New York Times: “Hell, yes, it was smuggled,” he was quoted as saying. “I spent between $15 and $16 million in the last two years on Asian art, and most of it was smuggled.”

Did the Dancing Lord leave behind his consort, son and devotee behind !!!!

Note to audiences: Antiquities, Global auction houses and Museums are a tricky subject and it is easy to brand them – but it is important for all concerned to take in the sentiments involved. The objective of this post is not to slander but to bring to light the truth. As noticed above the sums involved are huge but these are our ancestral treasures – embodiments of God. The condition of the hundreds of bronzes in the State godowns in our own country cry for attention – the threat to them make their return to their abodes risky as well – it is time for the best brains to get together and think of a solution.

Ref:

https://plone.unige.ch/art-adr/cases-affaires/nataraja-idol-2013-india-and-norton-simon-foundation-1/case-note-2013-nataraja-idol-2013-india-and-norton-simon-foundation/view

http://www.forbes.com/2004/05/25/cx_0525conn.html|Forbes

http://www.tneow.gov.in/IDOL/judgement.html

Treasures of Cham (vietnam) sculpture – part 1

Not many of us would have heard the name Champa / Cham. It is a glorious kingdom that prospered in modern day Vietnam in and around the centre of the country closer to present day Danang – with their origins as early as 7th C CE. The early history was predominantly Saivite and it is interesting that the cities were names Indrapura, Amaravati, Panduranga, Vijaya etc.

The Hindu art of the Cham is really interesting, but very rarely found outside of vietnam. Much of the treasures have not survived the pressures of conflict but what remains is a real treasure. Most of them are housed in the Museums in Saigon ( Hochiminh city) and Danang. The popular forms are a profusion of Linga, Mukalingas, Sayana ( sleeping) Vishnu and ofcourse Ganesha.

Today, we see the first part of this series on Cham sculptures, with a magnificient early Ganesha – dated to the early period of Cham art – 8th C CE.

For starters the time line of Cham artifacts are split in the following styles ( the names are the regions from where the art of the periods were found)

My Son E1 (7th to 8th century CE)
Dong Duong (9th to 10th century CE)
My Son A1 (10th century CE)
Khuong My (first half of 10th century CE)
Tra Kieu (second half of 10th century CE)
Chanh Lo (end of 10th century to mid-11th century CE )
Thap Mam (11th to 14th century CE)

The Ganesha is carved out of sandstone and the most characteristic features are the attributes. Sadly, only one of the hands has survived but he holds a very interesting object in it

For a second we were wondering what it might be, before we realised that it was our humble corn, complete with the peeled skins hanging down.

It was also interesting to note that he had a Naga ( snake) yagnopavitha – the sacred thread.

There are also remnants of ornamentation seen on the arm and also the simple crown. The detailing and size of the toes/ feet, the waist cloth etc are also beautiful. There seem to be some provision to insert the eyes ( precious stone?).

Thanks to master artist Mr. Srinivas of The Chroma Academy, we get a chance to recreate the sculpture.


The Cham sculpture however is distinct and different from the Ganesha’s we see ( contemporary period 8th C CE) in South India.

It would be interesting to study it more, and for those interested to pursue one of the very early Ganesha forms is the Terracota Ganesha escavated from veerapuram ( Kurnool district in AP) ( courtesy : Ganesh: studies of an Asian god
By Robert L. Brown) – dated to 2nd C BCE !!

There is lot more to come in this series and next up will be this very very interesting and unique panel

Photos Courtesy : Mr Wasanta Fernando
Vietnam History Museum Address:
Nguyen Binh Khiem Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

A Cave, a lost painting and the birth star of Sri Raja Raja Chola – Thiru Nandikkarai

Fellow enthusiast Shankar had been pushing me to see a faint outline of a Ganesha for sometime now, but for some unexplainable reason, I never spent time to study it, despite him sending me some real high resolution images. Little did I realise then what it held in it and that it would choose its own time to reveal itself to us.

When Numismatist Sri Raman said that he had some photos that had come into a waste paper mart, which seemed to cover areas of my interest and if i would like to procure them, i hadn’t the faintest idea of what they would contain. Yet, he persisted and sent me a few scanned images. He had picked them wisely, one was an immaculate bronze and another the famed Tanjore big temple painting – but the images were atleast half a century old !!! I took the bait and asked him to get the entire lot.

When Arvind and me looked at the eclectic mix of fading monographs, one set struck our eyes. They were marked on reverse Thirunandikkarai and dated 1942.

My thoughts raced to Shankar and he obliged by sending his entire collection as the cave stood today ” Thiru Nandikkarai – a cave temple protected by ASI in Kanyakumari district, 10Kms from Thiruvattaru ( 40 Kms from nagerkoil)”

The insides of the cave ( as he had sent me earlier – you wouldn’t fault me for not going over it properly !)

The cave itself is attributed stylistically to 8th C CE ( you can see the provision of a channel for the daily ablution water to flow out of the sanctum which is considered a later feature)

But what i had missed earlier was the faint red outlines which Shankar had been pushing me to study.

It was when i say the half a century old photographs from the waste paper mart that i realised the folly.

A classy Ganapathy complete with his own dwarf attendant on the top ( reminded me of similar ones from the Kanchi Kailsantha temple !) – notice the bold strokes of the hands. Sadly much has been lost since the time the photos were taken.

This was not all, there were more in the collection. Let me draw your attention to the wall we saw earlier, slightly to the top center right.

Now to reference the photographs

Simply stunning yet sad at the continuing loss of our treasures.

There are two more sets in the collection, which we have not been able to spot in current day.

What are these depictions ?

Btw, the cave holds another very important historical information in its entrance.

There is some speculation on the Birthstar of the Great Raja Raja Chola – if he is born in Aippasi Sadayam or Chittirai Sadayam.

Dr. Kudavayil Balasubramaniam in his book on Tiruvarur Thyagaraja temple, quotes an inscription of Rajendra Chola that gives clarity on subject::

” Naam Pirantha Aadi thiruvathiriyum
Nam Ayyan Pirandharuliya AIPPASI SADHAYAMUM .. ”

The article by sir and the text of inscription

10034
10031

– says Rajendra I and gives a grant on the Natal Star of Rajendra I and his father Rajaraja I.

However, in this very cave in Thiru Nandikkarai there is an inscription of Sri Raja Raja himself,

TRAVANCORE STATE

Tirunandikkarai.

185. On the east wall of the rock-cut iva shrine. Belongs to
the eighteenth year of Rajaraja I and records grant to the temple
for the celebration of a festival in Aippasi, Satabhisha, the birth-
day of the king. See Trav. Arch. Ser. t Vol. I, pp. 291-2.”

Btw, we do not know which great soul these collection of old photographs are and how they ended up in a waste paper mart. There are no names on them and hence if someone could identify any, please let us know.

Kudumiyaanmalai – a sculptural marvel – A Guest post – Mr. Mohandoss Ilangovan

A real treat to viewers, my young friend Mr. Mohandoss takes us through a spectacular post ( thanks to him for allowing us to repost his excellent article on Kudumiyaanmalai. The Tamil version is his and the English translation is by me). He is an IT professional and a budding artist as well.

3256
3259

Over to him

I feel my desire to visit Sittanavaasal was influenced strongly by the famous song ` enna vilai azage’ ( whats the price beautiful !) from the tamil film Kadhalar Dhinam ( lovers day). Love, and first love at that is reminiscent with nostalgic memories, one of them being the song which melts your heart.

When i mentioned to my Dad that i wanted to visit Sittanavaasal, even before seeking to book transport /car he put his condition not to photograph the lovely maidens there. I heard of him that after Kallanani, Mukkombu, Trichy Rockfort, the latest haunt of love birds was Sittananvaasal. Do not want to add more on it though. We got to know from the ASI person in Sittanavaasal about Kudumiyaan malai. Only after we visited the temple did we realise that if not for that tip we could have missed a spectacular site. ( will write more about Sittanavaasal shortly)

The Priests as usual were inaccurate in their explanations, adding more masala into legend – like that the temple was over 2000 years old and couldnt explain clearly about the spectacular stone sculptures there. The ASI person was also missing in action during our visit. However, some searching around and enquiring, led us to him – and he did gives us some interesting insights into the ` musical inscriptions’ and ` rock cut temples’.

The main duty of the priests is definitely not this, but atleast they could have some basic information correct. Anyway, thanks to them, i spent some time researching on the temple, having been to Tanjore big temple and Gangai Konda Cholapuram many times, the sculptures at Kudumiyaanmalai were top class, their finishing exquisite, but i quickly learnt that they are dated later to the big temple and gkc.

Despite the beauty, how far this temples fame has spread is to be seen, though well know in and around Trichy ( as per my Dad). When i was looking for authoritative works on the temple, i can across `Pudukkotai District History – Dr J. Raja Mohammed’ – with some information, which i share with you below. The photos are mine.

Kudumiyaanmalai is situated 16 kms from Pudukkotai. The place gets its name from the main deity who is called SigaaNaathasami ( Siga – Kudumi – pony tail – roughly meaning the deity with the pony tail – for want of better words!!). How he got the pony tail is described in the temple legends as an interesting story. The temple priest was a devote Shiva devotee. However, one day, his lady love was with him and in his love lorn state, he offered the garland meant for the Lord to his lady love. At that moment, the King made an unscheduled visit to the temple, and the Priest had to adorn the deity with flowers. Not knowing what to do, he used the same garland and later presented it to the King. However, the alert King noticed a strand of long hair in the garland and querried the priest. Caught in his act, the priest came up with a quick solution, lying that the main diety did have long mane/pony tail. When the king persisted to be shown this, the Lord in his infinite grace, chose to forgive his devotees act and save him. The Shiva Linga grew a mane. To this day, devotees are shown the knot on top of the Linga to testify to this grace of the Lord.

There are many inscriptions of historical significance in this temple, a 10th C one names the town as Thirunalakkundram, a 14th C one as Sigaanallur and the diety as Kudumiyaar, a 17-18C one calls it by its current name as Kudumiyaanmalai. Thirunalakundram – means sacred, holy hillock. Due to some liguistic misconceptions there are some legends relating this site to the story of Nala. 14th C inscriptions refer to the diety as ` thenkonattu siganallur kudumiyaar’. Some others refer to him as Kuduminaathar. Siganallur in all probability could have been Sigaranallur – Sigara – hill top. Even today we see a hill crowning this town. Maybe with the passage of time sigara became siga and the above legend of his pony tail could have been spun during the later period – For Kudumi in tamil doesn’t refer just to the tuff of hair/pony tail ut also to the top of a hill, a person of high standards etc. for eg, the great devotee Kannappa Naaynar prays to the deity names Kudumithevar in Kalahasti. Such names getting altered due to sanskrtisation of tamil names, is seen in other places like Malyilaaduthurai /Mayuram, Kurangaaduthurai / kapisthalam, thirumaraikaadu /vedaaranyam

In days of yore, there would have been settlements all over the plains surrounding this hill. When we climb the hill there is a natural cave/cavern which could have been inhabited by stone age man. There is Murugan temple on top of the hill, and on the eastern slope we find the Siganaathaswami temple.

There are many rare and interesting inscriptions revealing the long and checkered history of Pudukkotai here. The cave temple ( upper cave) has a Carnatic Music inscription which was earlier assigned to the great Pallava King Mahendra Pallava. However, recent studies have proved otherwise. The main Grabha Graha of Siganaathaswami is assigned to 12th C. After that the region chieftains Pallavaraayar have been contributing donations for its upkeep as per inscriptions. Following them, the temple gained prominence during the rule of the Thonadaimaans . They were crowned in this temple, Ragunaatharaayath Thondaimaan ( 1686 -1730) built the outer Mandap of the cave temple. In 1730 Raja Vijayaraguraaja Raayath Thondaimaan was crowned in front of this temple. An inscription dated 1872 in the Amman temple states that this temple was consecrated during the rule of Ramachandra Thondaimaan.

The cave temple as stated above is on the Eastern slopes and carved into the rock face. The main Garbha Graha and its corridor is sculpted into live rock, while the adjoining Mandabam was later added during 18th C with its imposing Door guardians.
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The sculptures are majestic and graceful exhibitions of masterly stone work. The Garbha Graha ( Sanctum Sanctorum) has a shiva linga and to the south of the cave, there is a lovely – unique valampuri ( trunk curled left against the normal right) Ganesh carved into the rock fave.

To the south of the Cave temple, on the eastern slopes, measuring 13’x14′ is a famous Carnatic Music inscription, which defines the generic guidelines for the music. This is a unique one of kind inscription and no similar ones exist anywhere in India. It nestles inbetween the 4th C work of Bharatha on Dance and Saarnagadevar’s Sangeetharathanakaara – describing the music during the interlying period. Its a record of a King Parama Mageshwaran, who was studying under the tutelage of Rudrachaarya, however not much is known of their identity. Based on the script, Dr. C. Meenakshi and other researchers asssigned it to Mahendra Pallava. But recently this has been disputed.

On the rock on top of the Cave temples, towards the summit, the 63 naayanmaars have been beautifully sculpted.


Siganathar – Akilandeswari temple, was a thriving centre during the samasthana period. East facing temple, as you enter through the main Gopura entrance, you see the 1000 pillared hall.

The pillars of this hall have lovely sculptures of Hanuman, Vaali, sugreev and others.



As you go further inside, you see the main hall – immediately you feel transported into some Museum of sculptural art. Such is the amazing range of sculptures you find in every side, completely numbing your senses by their overdose of artistic excellence.


Though these sculptures may date more recently ( AD 16-17 C), they are a lasting testament to stone craft of that period.

Having received an almost immortal life though a boon, the demon Hiranyakasipu, drunk on his power, looses his mind and refuses to believe in the omnipotence and omni presence of God, asking where is Hari ( Vishnu) to his own son Prahaladha, who in his infinite devotion says the lord is in every spec every pillar. Amused by the reply, Hiranyakasipu kicks the nearby pillar to split it – and from side bursts open a fiery creature – half man half lion – Narasimha, to use the flaw in the boon, catches him, place shim and his thighs and disembowels him – wearing his intestines as a garland. This is fantastically depicted in this pillar.

The Lord of love, Manmadhan with his love dart shooting sugar cane bow. The mesmerising Mohini ( Vishnu) who bewitched all the Rishis of Tarukavanam.

A lovely Ganesha with his consort, a ten headed Ravana ?, destroyer of evil Agora Veerabadra and many more. Such detailing of the sculptures, you can actually study the armaments of the infantry and the cavalary and how they both fought each other.









The corridor leading from the hall to the temple is called gangaiyaraiyan Kurudu ( built by the chieftains called gangaraiyars). Next to this is a hall constructed during Pandya rule, and further inside the mail hall and shrine are early Chola. The temple has seen multiple renovations and restorations in the interim period right from that time. The presence of the 8th C Pandya inscription refers to two shrines – Tirumoolathaanam and Tirumetrali. Tirumoolathaanam most possibly refers to the shiva shrine. The vimanam is a brick construction. The corridor surrounding the main shrine has Saptra matrika ( seven divine mothers) sculpture, Lingothbahva, Jesta devi, subramanya ( Muruga) etc. The Nayak period Hall has Vyagrapada ( tiger legged saint), Patanjai ( snake rishi) and other splendid sculptures.

The Amman diety is named Akhilandeswari and is a Pandya period construction. Just in front of this shrine is a 12’x8′ slab of black granite. It was on this stone that the rulers of Pallavarayar and Thondaiman clans crowned themselves. A courtesan names Umaiyaalnaachi helped construct an amman shrine near the rock cut cave – and names it malaimangai or sooundaryanaayagi. She also features in many donations for the Kudumiyaanmalai shrine.

Kudumiyaanmalai’s carnatic music inscription was earlier assigned to Mahendra Pallava. The following arguments are put against this :

1.There are no records to show the extent of Mahendra Pallava’s regin into the territory south of the river Kaveri.
2. There are more than 120 inscriptions in Kudumiyaanmalai of various Kings.Not one is a Pallava record. The earliest records are Pandya records assigned to Maravarman Rajasimman aka First Sadayan Maaran AD 730-765 and second Jadilapaaranthaga Varuguna Maran Sadayan AD 765-815.
3. The pillars of the cave are stylistically differing from the charateristic Mahendra pillars.
4. The absence of somasskanda carving in the back wall of Garba Graha.
5. The Linga in the cave temple also differs stylistically from Mahendra’s. From the 8th C inscription in the cavetemple, its been dated to that period.
6. Having dated the shrine to the 8th C, it also follows that the carnatic music inscription also be dated to that period. Though the script is said to be similar to those in vouge during Mahendra Pallava time, similar granta characters have been found in later pandya inscriptions like in Velvikkudi and copper plats grants kept in the chennai museum.
7. The reference to Gunasena in inscriptions is taken to resemble the title ( biruda) Gunabara of Mahendra Pallava. However even Gunasena does not find mention in Kudumiyaanmalai. ( its found in Tirmayam, malayadipatti)
8. The title of Parama Maheswara at the nend of music inscription, was assigned to be a title of Mahendra. However, in all the titles of Mahendra pallava there is no mention of this title. Further, Maheshwara was a title taken by kalamuha/pasupatha sect which were ridiculed by Mahendra Pallava in his sanskrit play Mattavelaar prahasanam. so he wouldnt keep a title which he ridiculed as his own.

Kodumbalur in days of yore was the capital of the Velirs and they supported the kalamuha sects giving them many grants. These are recorded in Kudumiyaanmalai. so in all probablilty a Kodumbalur Velir King could have taken the title of Maheshwara.

Thus all the arguments point away from Mahendra Pallava.

There are no Ganesha sculptures in Mallai – except for ….

Wishing all viewers a very happy and prosperous new year 2009. A friend commented that over a 100 posts and not one dedicated to the Ganesha – the remover of obstacles. So today we see him, not just any post but one that poses a lot of questions into the origin of Ganesha worship in South India.

This is another of the puzzles of Mahabalipuram – there are almost over 50 representations of Shiva with his family – as Somaskanda ( Sou Uma skanda – With Uma and Skanda) – reminds me to a post on them. But conspicuous by his absence is Ganesha.

Hang on, i know some of you are already jumping – yes – the Ganesha Ratha is the only shrine still under worship in Mahabalipuram. But when it was sculpted it was sculpted as a shrine for Shiva. Why and how it got converted to a shrine for the Son is an interesting legend by itself. Lets see the chronology one by one:

Leaving aside the Pillayarpatti caves that are assigned to an earlier period, the earliest reference to Ganesha worship starts with the famous war of Vatapi. Those who have read Author Kalki’s Sivagamiyin Sabatham ( Sivagami’s Vow) would immediately recollect the scene. The trusted General of Narasimhavaraman II – Paranjothi helps him to avenge his father’s defeat at the hands of the Chalukya king, Pulakesi II in the year 642 CE. ( They prepared for the war for 12 years !!) – but standing on the dawn of the battle day, Paranjothi sees a Ganesha sculpture on the walls of Vatapi and prays to him for his success. On the victorious battle field he undergoes a change of heart and takes to life of a saint – as siruthondar becomes a Nayanmaar, takes back the statue of Ganesha to worship as Vatapi Ganesha. So is he the first instance of Ganesha in Pallava land.

Well, the story gets interesting now. Sambandar and Appar have sung the greatness of Ganesha. See below verse references:

Sambandar’s Verse

the supreme god in Valivalam where many people who are the incarnation of unbounded liberality, crowd.
when Umai assumed the form of a female elephant.
Civaṉ assuming the form of a strong male elephant.
was gracious enough to beget kaṇapati who destroys obstacles to devotees who worship his feet.
Translation: V.M.Subramanya Aiyar–Courtesy: French Institute of Pondichery / EFEO (2006)

Appar’s Verse

the elephant faced god, Kaṇapati who wanders frightening in the minds of people who rise suffering intensely, having very many desires.the two lights which have the strength to dispel darkness and the great mountain, Kayilāyam.we are the kindred of the God who has Keṭilam having water which confers good on people who bathe on it.
Translation: V.M.Subramanya Aiyar–Courtesy: French Institute of Pondichery / EFEO (2006)

So, its clear that Ganesha was worshipped and well known as the son of Shiva and Parvathi during their times itself.

There are lot of scholarly debates about the authorship of the Mahablipuram monuments, yet fortunately the Shore temple’s builder is clear – Rajasimha Pallava.

We come back to the Ganesha Ratha. Yes, it does have a Ganesha Statue installed and under worship. But ( here i seek help from the masterly work of Sri. Swaminathan sir) – read below one of the earliest extracts of a foreigner accounts of Mahabalipuram – 1788 AD

The Ganesa Ratha had originally a linga in the sanctum, and seems to have been taken away by Lord Hobert, who was Governor of Madras from 1794 to 1798. A compensation of 20 pagodas was given to the villagers and took away to England. His successor, the second Lord Clive (1798-1803), took away the Nandi of this temple. Chambers: 1788

So, how did the Ganesha come – again a note, this time by a noted historian

When that linga was carried off by Bu…, the people of this place took an image of Vinayaka which was near and put it into the Garbagriha. On the wall to the south of the Garbagriha is some inscription written, the character of which is unknown.
—– (1803:Lakshmiah)

Ok, for the people who are still unconvinced – inscriptional evidence

This is a lengthy inscription of eleven verses in Sanskrit from the ` Ganesha Ratha’.. the fifth verse states, “This temple of Sambhu (Siva) was caused to be made by King Atyantakama, conqueror of his enemies’ territory and renowned by the title Ranajaya.” The name of the temple is then given: “Atyantakama-Pallavesvara-Griham” (“The Isvara (Siva) temple of the Pallava (king) Atyantakama”).
‘Atyantakama’ and ‘Ranajaya’ were titles of Pallava kings

So where does this lead us – in all of the cave temples, Bas reliefs and Free standing Rathas of Mahabalipuram there is not a single representation of Ganesha. He first comes in the shore temple. We have already carried a brief intro of the shore temple

Shore Temple Intro post

Now lets test your powers of observation once again. Can you spot him.

You can see that there are various Ganas occupying similar positions. so what do we conclude ?

Well, the objective of this site is to spread awareness and spur people to search for answers. So i just leave you with some closeups of Ganesha – may he remove all your obstacles and the new year usher a grand year of joy and prosperity.